The great helmswomen of Hampi

Hampi (Bellary, Karnatka):

I’ve seen women do many jobs in India, but the boatwomen of Hampi taking tourists across the rocky Tungabhadra River, was a surprise to me.

They were down in the distance as I was walking back from the Vitthala temple, but the image left a powerful impression on me.

Given that I live in a near-woman-only household, and headquarters is quite powerful, and also having worked with many women bosses in my career, I am quite aware of the power than women can and do wield.

In the time that I was ill last year, I also saw the power of women (apologies if I make any of my male relatives / friends unhappy) in taking care of me. From questioning the doctors closely to comforting me in every way possible, they were critical in ensuring a more than full recovery for me.

And, perhaps, ensuring that I was fit and able to embark on a month-long journey without any of them being around was full ad final proof that I was as healthy as the next person.

But I am digressing. Or am I?

In India, women not only hold up the sky of the home, they also keep the office going. They are both the internal and external combustion engine.

In North India, we don’t see many women doing jobs that women do without a bother in the bits of southern India that I have had the privilege of travelling through.

Let’s face facts – the insecurity that goes along with being a woman in North India is so massive that many jobs which women should be doing as a matter of course – seem to be outside their domain.

From oarswomen to bus conductors, to bus station supervisors, to running home stays in Hampi, they do it all here.

Upon my arrival in Hampi, I had an immediate double agenda – to have a thaali lunch and access the internet.

I climbed the stairs to the Raju Rooftop Restaurant, which promised the internet.

As I walked upstairs, I quickly realised that no food was being cooked and the restaurant was not in use.

In a matter of seconds, I had walked into someone’s home. The lady of the house was at home and a niece or a sister was sleeping on the floor.

The internet was out, since the lady informed me there was no current.

I then asked her where I could eat a thaali.

She thought for a moment and said, “Main tumko khaana de sakti hoon.”

In a moment, I had a thaali with three rotis, sabzi and sambaar. (The rotis in this part of the world, BTW, are quite large). And, then I had a fourth roti and some more sabzi.

By then, I had realised that this was the family’s afternoon meal, which had been shared with me.

I paid Rs. 60 for the food to her husband who walked in just as I was leaving. And, then seeing that my water bottle was empty, the lady asked if I needed another. Yes I did. Twelve rupees more and I was on my way.

Her ease of manner, dignity and confidence along with an innate entrepreneurial spirit were truly impressive.